Hello,

I used to make my crystals by rolling my jar, gently, so i don't have emulsions.This is how i've learned it, and probably how more people do it, especially when you are a beginner or stuck to the same routine without much experimenting.

But there's absolutely no reason to be so gentle at all.

I used to sit there and roll my jar for 30 minutes in total, pausing every 10 minutes, for each pull, this was quite a time consuming chore, but when you use enough lye there's absolutely no need to be so gentle, you can shake that jar violently and as long as you want, after a few minutes the solvent which is preferred will be on top again, and the yields are higher when you shake it as well, probably because the solvent is spread much better over the mix instead of just rolling on top of it.

What i do is, i take a 3 liter pickle jar, 200 grams of NaOh, a little over 2 liters of water, and 100 to 150 grams of MHRB, i shake the jar violently for about 20 seconds or more, let it sit, and repeat this process a few times before extracting the solvent.I never have any emulsions when i added everything in these proportions.Well, there's an emulsion for about a minute of course, but then everything's back to normal.

I think i use the Lazymans tek, but i'm not sure, it's a little improvised.
I just prepare my jar with lye and water, let it cool down, add my MHRB shake it for a while, let it sit for about 24 hours and add the solvent, which is Heptane/Hexane in my case, shake it for a few times, usually 10, 15 times, it can be done in a row, spread over a day, a week, it doesn't matter.The extracted solvent should cloud and become milky when you blow it.

It's probably not necessary to shake it that much, but i do it anyway.
2 or 3 times will also do it.

This is all pretty common information but hopefully people who stuck to rolling or stirring their jars will be helped by this anyway.

Vigorous shaking will force more oils into the NPS and small basified particles and droplets will hang in suspension but other than that not much difference just personal preference. Rollng and tilting just prevents problems down the line..

i suppose thats the difference between A/B de-fatting and just a BLAB or STB. In the chat the other day we were discussing cleaning up dirty spice and im familiar with just the standard re-x but someone (it may have been dreamer042) said that they do a kind of reverse defat, where they dissolve the dmt in minimal naptha. shake in some acidic water and then seperate, basify and extract. pretty simple, if it takes less time in the long run (shake like hell and pull) but generally BLAB comes out pretty pure even when you do shake like hell.

In the past i have gotten around dealing with oils and waxes being mixed in with my spice by doing a slow evap after evaporating to saturation. when its done i take the cover off, pick out the big clear xtals (1cmx1cm) with some tweazers, then scrape up all the wax/oil and smaller sparkly bits for changa or enhanced leaf.

Hi.
Thanks for the response!

The crystals are just white, but it's possible there are some plant oils in it.
I don't use hot solvent, just room temperature and make sure i don't extract anything else than solvent alone though.

The first pull produces clear white crystals on the sides and bottom of the glass and also a bunch floating around in the jar which i collect in a coffee filter, the last pulls do have a slightly yellowish hue to it, and are a little waxier, meaning, the crystals on the razor i use to scrape them off can be a little sticky, this is probably because of the oils i extracted with it
Personally i have no problems with that, the smoke is extremely smooth, i vaporize with a VG, maybe it's better to re-crystalize for most people to get an even more pure product, for myself i don't see the point of doing so.

If it isnt yellow, the waxyness is probably just tannins or something, or partially melted dmt freebase. if you have white xtals there is nothing wrong (even yellow is ok) slightly waxy is just how it is

Hi,

The waxiness is slightly yellow, i'm not planning to et it with MAOI's so the tannins are probably not something to worry about i reckon?

I seem to have a weird anomaly in my extraction this time, i tried to add citric acid to the mix, it ought to give higher yields but it turned out a bit weird.

I tried to extract the usual way, but i added citric acid to the mix, this seemed to extract some stuff i've never seen before, the sides of the jar where covered in regular crystals, but the bottom of the jar seemed to have a matted brownish film, i first scraped of the crystals and collected them, at the end i scraped up the film, this came of in small flakes, when i cut them up it looked like a slightly brown powered DMT, but i'm not too sure it really is DMT.

It looks like i extracted a lot more impurities, i'm not sure if the impurities are just other forms of alkaloids as in "jungle spice" or plant oils.

Any ideas on this?

I'm planning to add salt to my next extraction as well.

The extra lye is what stops emulsions, you have a decent ratio here, you could probably shake the crap out of it.

Yes, it's pretty fool proof, nevertheless this fool messed up by adding citric acid, now the emulsions take ages to dissolve and i seem to extract more than just DMT.

What about stirring with a big metal spoon? Pour in NP solvent of choice and stir vigorously for 5-10, let separate over a few minsand pipette solvent?If using heptane, isit less likely to pull plant fats compared to Naphtha?

1gram RB to 1 gram lye to 1500ml water. 100ml NP solvent. ...

I pour everything from the beaker into a filter flask, add my solvent and shake the fear of god into it. I let it settle and repeat this a few times.

I have some cool magnetic stir bars that do an awesome job mixing things up. So I'll pour everything back into the beaker and stir/heat for 20 mins. I siphon off my pulls to a sep funnel using a pipette and drain off any crud.

I'll do 3x combined pulls the first day, then 2x the second day. I'll let it sit and try another pull in a week, since by the 2nd extraction my bark is so exhausted I'd be doing great to see 10mg..

40-50g bark usually nets me 600-700mg highly active white fluff on the first extraction.

I really hope I have this sort of luck with phalaris..


That'a not all of that pull, I had to distill off more solvent and freeze precip more out which was made my yield 30% greater by weight.

SWIM agrees with shaking/emulsifying the mixture. His theory being that when emulsified, the surface area between the solvent and soup is greatly increased. He's shaken canning jars violently, but after having the odd incident of having an improper seal and having the odd splash, he just tilts the jars at an angle and stirs carefully but forcefully (if that makes any sense).

That in itself emulsifies the liquids to the point where they have to sit for a minute or two, but definitely does the job.

Also, he's found that if the soup is full of particulate matter, the emulsions stay much longer, so a suggestion is if one wants to shake the heck out of the liquids, make sure the soup is filtered at least somewhat. Cheese cloth is good for this, as coffee filters clog up way too fast if there's lots of miniscule particulate matter in the soup.