Some years ago swim had a cyanescens outdoor patch since his mother dig it up..

he started his cyans adventure from a honey tek mycelium syringe gifted by a friend..so the mycelium was already isolated and was ryzomorphic too..he just inoculated a jar of woodchips and it did the job.. swim would ask you if he needs to colonize first an agar petri with spore or if he could do a spawn jar with PF tek and than colonize the hardwood chips with it..if someone is interested swim remembers to have good results colonizating jars filled with just hardwood chips with one or two tablespoon of rye seeds and some 2cm cardboard pices..very fast groth!

The best thing would be to start with an agar petri dish with spores,since all spore prints and syringes made from any mushroom grown outdoor will probably be contaminated.
From there you just choose the right growth and dicard the contaminants.And well the rest you know how to do it...

All the info you need to know is here : Mycotopia new vaults just scroll down to woodlovers

I've heard they start well on corrugated cardboard, better than molds--which means you could potentially skip the agar step... maybe worth a try if you have a few extra CCs of spore solution.

If you go with PF style jars make them with grain, cardboard, and hardwood chips instead of vermiculite and brown rice flour.

A possibility for spawn jars comes from The Mushroom Cultivator...

Sawdust/Bran Spawn
4 parts sawdust (hardwood)
1 part bran (rice or wheat)
Soak the sawdust in water for a least
twenty four hours, allow to drain and then
thoroughly mix in the bran. If the mixture has
the proper moisture content, a firm squeeze
results in a few drops between the fingers. Fill
the material firmly to the neck of the spawn
container (wide mouth). Japanese spawn
makers bore a 1/2 inch diameter hole down
the center of the media into which they later
insert their inoculum. Sterilize for 60-90 min-
utes at 15 psi. Once cooled, inoculate from
agar media, liquid emulsion, or grain. A fully
grown bottle of sawdust bran spawn can also
be used for further inoculations.

...I'd be concerned with the mix turning out too dense, but I suppose it depends on how fine the sawdust is.

A web search on "cultivation psilocybe azurescens cyanescens" gets lots of hits.

Good Luck

yeah thanks for suggestions swim has already grown the cyans and remember that a mix of hardwoodchips,oat seeds and ardboard pieces workedvery good and the mycelium was very white and ryzomorphic but he dunno if it would be good for spawns..anyway if he will start his project he will try few methods of culture

AFAICT, the only difference between spawn medium and cultivation medium is that spawn medium doesn't need to sustain growth for the length of time it takes to get fruiting bodies. So, any medium can be used as spawn as long as it is colonized.

thanks tseakla,i'll place an order soon i think!

Cyans are very prolific in the PNW if you look in the right locations. Speaking from experience, I think the easiest way to start a wild patch outdoors is to just do a mycellium transfer or just use the whole mushroom to seed an area. Wild spores and wild spawn are the best and easiest way to start a patch. Cyans are very agressive and prolific when put in the sweet spot

Cultured spawn works in the steril jar, it often has problems when released in the wild.

Aged alder, maple, birch, aspen, oak, or most any other deciduos wood chips for food.

The most difficult part most have about starting a new patch is introducing them into the right location. The balance of light, temperature, and humidity are are the key.

Wild spawn and the right location

whoa! great picture icehouse!!

now i'm doing pleurotus ostreatus spawn jar,but asap swim will start his cyans grom starting from cyans spore print from FSRE!

Nice picture! Do you have any specific information on what light, temperature and humidity they enjoy the most?

This particular cluster of cyans has colonized birch wood chips that were placed in the shade under a trellis of grapes. If you look closely you can see a grape in the picture, (bottom right), Soooo, This patch does get light but it is in the shade 75% of the day. You want to avoid direct sunlight for long periods of time as this will dry out your casing layer and the mycellium will retreat from this area. That being said you dont want the ground to be soaking wet either, good drainage is also a must. They like it wet but they are not fungus aquaticus.

I find that for optimal fruiting temps need to drop into the mid 40s faranheight, below the dew point, I imagine that the humidity is close to 100% at ground level. Humidity plays more of a role in the summer months when there is less rain. The wood mulch should remain a little moist below the top layer of soil.

I hope this helps if not ask more questions I'd love to help.

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