We've Moved! Visit our NEW FORUM to join the latest discussions. This is an archive of our previous conversations...

You can find the login page for the old forum here.
CHATPRIVACYDONATELOGINREGISTER
DMT-Nexus
FAQWIKIHEALTH & SAFETYARTATTITUDEACTIVE TOPICS
Extraction Help: First Timer Options
 
zecon
#1 Posted : 9/10/2022 8:49:36 PM
Hello. I'm looking forward to my first extraction and have found inconsistencies and missing information on the step by step I based everything off, though small, still have me concerned, so I'd like clarify the methods I'll use and verify the equipment will be suitable.

Ingredients: 100g MHRB powder. VM&P Naptha. 100% crystal lye. Distilled water. White vinegar.

Gear: Primitive electric stovetop (no open flame). Low setting goes pretty low.
5 600 ml borosilicate beakers.
4 small jars for finished naptha solution (not sure if soda-lime or not. They are intended for use with food.)
20 cheesecloths
PH Test strips ranging from 1-14
Small scale that measures to .01
Stainless Steel 2.35L double boiler
10 ml glass pipettes.
An extra pot to boil ONLY water as I cook food with it.
Meat thermometer to measure water temps, etc.
coffee filters

Safety Gear: Nitrile gloves, N95 Respirator, safety goggles, and vinegar. I will also be cleaning/clearing all clutter away from the area to prevent cross contamination and helping me identify any spills so I don't lean on lye or something the next day.

so from here out I will post the guide I was planning on using, and I'll list my questions in bold. If my containers aren't large enough, I can cut the quantity in half and do 50g MHRB. Also please provide any criticism/advice that I missed or didn't think to ask, or any flaws in the method. I'd prefer to use these steps as it's what i've prepared for and equipped myself for, I can try other methods in the future.

Step 1: Gently Heat the Plant Material in Water & Vinegar
Starting with your dried plant material, grind it into a fine powder using a blender or coffee grinder.

Next, slowly add 5% distilled white vinegar to the powdered herb (ratio 0.4 mL per gram of dried herb).

Add near boiling distilled water (90ºC) at a ratio of 3.6 mL water to 1 gram of dried root powder.

Gently heat the solution for about 3 hours, stirring frequently. You can use a double boiler, hot plate, or slow cooker to achieve this. Keep the heat setting on low — it shouldn’t be boiling.

Step 2: Strain to Remove the Plant Material
After a half-hour or so, you can strain the plant material out of the mixture with a cheesecloth or fine strainer. The liquid you’re left with is essentially a tincture of the starting herb material. It will be very dark and have a strong aroma.

Step 1 says to heat for 3 hours but step 2 says after a half hour or so I can strain the plant material out of the mixture. Can someone clarify what exactly I'm supposed to do in this 3.5 hour period? How do I dispose of the plant material safely?


Step 3: Basify The Solution
To basify the solution, mix about 5 g of lye (sodium hydroxide) with 100 mL of distilled water. Test the pH to ensure it’s around 12 or 13. You know the pH is above 12 when it goes from a deep purple color to a dark black.

Will 5g lye / 100 ml distilled water be sufficient for my mix? I assumed there would be some sort of ratio. I assume I can slowly add it and keep testing the PH until it breaks into 13 and then stop.


Add the solution to the extraction gradually — it will darken and begin to heat up. Allow the mixture to sit for about 48 hours before moving on to the next step.

is the 48 hours absolutely necessary? How can I store the solution for the 48 hours? will it need to be covered/cooled/left at room temperature?

Step 4: Filter & Defat The Solution
The defatting process involves “washing” the solution with a nonpolar solvent, such as naphtha (found at camping stores in the form of fuel or Zippo fluid).

Once you add the solvent, give the mixture a stir, a nonpolar phase will gradually start to float to the top of the liquid. Let the mixture sit for 24 hours to allow it to separate completely. Lightly mix the solution together by lightly shaking the jar every few hours. Don’t shake too vigorously, or the solution will emulsify and become much harder to separate.

Over the course of a few hours, the DMT will diffuse from the bottom water layer to the top naphtha layer.

Am I able to use a beaker (straight wall) and just stir/swirl instead of a jar? Does the solution need to stay covered? Do I need to keep it in the fridge or room temperature for this?

Step 5: Separate the Top DMT-Containing Layer & Rechrystalize
Using a pipette, turkey baster, or separation funnel, separate the clear top layer from the dark bottom layer. The clear top layer is where the DMT is.

Place the solution in the fridge to cool. Chrystals will form at the bottom of the solution, which consists of nearly pure freebase DMT.

You can then pour this mixture through a coffee filter to separate the DMT chrystals from the naphtha. Allow the coffee filters to completely dry in a well-ventilated area to remove the naphtha.
 
Homo Trypens
Welcoming committeeSenior Member
#2 Posted : 9/10/2022 9:16:24 PM
Hello zecon, welcome Smile

zecon wrote:
Step 1 says to heat for 3 hours but step 2 says after a half hour or so I can strain the plant material out of the mixture. Can someone clarify what exactly I'm supposed to do in this 3.5 hour period? How do I dispose of the plant material safely?

It means, half an hour after taking it off the heat Smile It will be too hot to squeeze the cloth before that.
I recommend to not dispose of the plant material until you're sure you got everything out that you wanted. Typically it's recommended to simmer the same material at least 2-3 times. 3h is a pretty long heat, but i'd still add a second one, maybe for one hour. You can combine the filtered teas for further processing. You can throw the bark on the compost, or add it to soil mixes, or throw it into the trash, ... because in this tek, it doesn't soak up any petrochemicals.


zecon wrote:
Will 5g lye / 100 ml distilled water be sufficient for my mix? I assumed there would be some sort of ratio. I assume I can slowly add it and keep testing the PH until it breaks into 13 and then stop.

It should give you 100ml of lye solution with pH above 12. It's probably more than enough, but if not, you can make more. You can of course measure to get exactly 13 or whatever, but it's not really necessary.
Btw, this is the step that is exothermic. Make sure to stir well until all is dissolved, add in smaller portions if necessary and wait between additions. I don't think 5g in 100ml gets it to boil over when stirred though. Do this in a well ventilated area as the lye fumes aren't pleasant.


zecon wrote:
is the 48 hours absolutely necessary? How can I store the solution for the 48 hours? will it need to be covered/cooled/left at room temperature?

No it's not necessary. I think nowadays it's even discouraged to let base soup sit that long without nps sitting on top to cut out contact with oxygen. I like to add the nps for first pull ca. 20 minutes after mixing in the lye, when the solution is still warm to hot.


zecon wrote:
Am I able to use a beaker (straight wall) and just stir/swirl instead of a jar? Does the solution need to stay covered? Do I need to keep it in the fridge or room temperature for this?

Yes you can do it in a beaker. The naphtha should be at least room temperature, better warm to hot, so it can dissolve a lot of dmt. Warm pulls pull more, at the risk of also pulling more fats. There isn't much fats in MHRB though.
Later when you separated the naphtha and cool it, that dmt will crash out of solution and crystallise.
 
 
Users browsing this forum
Guest

DMT-Nexus theme created by The Traveler
This page was generated in 0.024 seconds.