Loveall gets the credit for this even though I did the extraction because he gave me the idea.

I performed an Max Ion extraction using Crown brand White Gas Camping Fuel (SDS can be found here). It contains 95-100% LIGHT HYDROTREATED DIST (68410-97-9).

It evaporated clean upon two tests.

Starting Material: 50g
Number of Pulls: 3 @ 35-45ml each.
Final yield of three pulls: 471mg

General notes: Would like to perform another evaporation test with a larger volume to ensure clean evaporation of the solvent. As an extraction solvent, it seems "lighter" than Naphtha, more easily dripping from the pipette during pulling. Provides a crystalline yellow product.

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Looks good. Can also be used for fire flow 🙂

Says there is an "added rust inhibitor to protect camping gear from corrosion".

What do you think that is?

Uncertainties such as this are why I want to perform another evap test and why I don't plan on smaolking anything from this particular batch yet.

And if you could, where did you find that information? I don't see it on the SDS.

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I didn't see it in the SDS either. I know Coleman has anti-rust agents, I thought crown did not. So sorry if I was wrong 🙏

No sorries Nature of experimentation and research. Hopefully shroombee will weigh in again. I'm hoping he was looking a different product.

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https://www.rei.com/prod...el-crown-camp-fuel-quart

If you look at the image of the back of the can, it says "rust inhibitor..." in the upper left.

I'm using the "white gas" version. I'll check the back of that can to see if it says the same when I get home tomorrow.

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I see. The "white gas" version also says "rust inhibitor..." in the upper left.

https://www.walmart.com/...anterns-1-Quart/51741743

I was looking that up too (having realized it's perfectly possible to look it up and not wait until tomorrow).

So I guess the questions now are; what exactly is the rust inhibitor? Does it too evaporate out of the final product? Or is the product contaminated by the rust inhibitor?

Will report back with any findings.

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Just looking up what rust inhibitors do (inhibit rust) and how they work (leaving a thin protective coating), I'm thinking rust inhibitor won't evaporate cleanly. Otherwise the item would rust and people would complain the rust inhibitor doesn't work.

A direction of thought I was also on. I had never heard of that before so had to look it up for a bit.

Well, now we know.

Thanks everyone.

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New question: Would a re-x cleanup and clear the product of the rust inhibitor in question? No one wants to throw out DMT

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It probably would, but I'm not 100% sure. You could dissolve in good naphtha, and then do a mini A/B. I would be comfortable with that for myself.

Thank you. I'm doing it now.

I dissolved in fresh naphtha, then added to 500ml acidic water, and I'm on 6 of 10 mix/separate step. After, will base using 50g of NAOH in 200ml water, and then will perform pulls, evaporate, freeze precipitate.

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Alright, a couple more questions.

This first one shows I should've taken a nap first. Anyway, The vessel that I was pulling from has a mouth that is narrower than the jars that I would be pouring my solvent from. So, I grabbed a plastic turkey baster to transfer the hot solvent into the extraction vessel. Dumb move, I realized it doing the first pull. What was done was done, so I did two more pulls. I will say, the clear turkey baster is now white on the "clear" part. Will I need to do another mini A/B to help get rid of possible plastic particulate from the dumb baster?

Next one is of a little more interest to me, information-wise. Finishing the pulls of the impurities from the acidic solution, a small layer was left. After basing, and performing the pulls, I noticed small amalgams of orange particles on the top of the water. It was a gathering centered around where the tip of my pipette would've met the water if it kept the same trajectory moving further into the vessel. Thoughts on what this amalgam could be?

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Mmmm that's a sexy sight. Too bad I'm still researching to see if it's safe to enjoy (not that I don't already have a considerable amount for personal use).

And pretty sure there's still more to retrieve. Jar with solution isn't completely clear.



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After checking compatability charts, I'm confident that this spice will need to be cleaned again. So the question now is whether another mini A/B is needed to clean it up or if a re-x will be satisfactory.

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I can't answer this a priori.

What I would do is a mock test with the affected turkey baster and new naphtha (dissolve some of the plastic purposely). Does something subsequently crash in the freezer? If not, them I would simply do a re-X. If there is gunk, I would do a miny A/B.

Subjectively it looks very good to me already 😅

That's a good idea. I think I'll heat 20ml of solvent, suck it up with the affected battery, spit it back into the jar and place the jar in the freezer. If after 12+ hours there's nothing noticeable that has precipitated I'll evaporate it down some and put it in the freezer again to see if any plastic particulate has precipitated.



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